In the heart of the French Alps, the Écrins massif unfolds a wild and majestic nature, a natural theater where mountain stories are written every day. Between imposing peaks, sparkling glaciers, and secret valleys, five iconic hikes invite you to explore these exceptional landscapes. From the Emparis plateau to glacial refuges, let yourself be carried away by the raw emotion and breathtaking beauty of these routes, perfect for all nature and adventure lovers.
Located between the Northern and Southern Alps, the Écrins massif is a vast high mountain territory characterized by its imposing peaks (over 150 exceeding 3000 meters), its extensive glaciers, and its alpine pastures where larch and coniferous forests grow. These steep and wild mountains are crossed by deep glacial valleys, where humans have adapted over centuries, blending pastoralism and tourism, to shape a landscape that is both powerful and imbued with a gentle humanity.
Created in 1973, the Écrins National Park protects 93,000 hectares in the heart of this massif rich in remarkable biodiversity, with thousands of plant and animal species. Formerly little known and sometimes confused with the Oisans or Pelvoux massifs, the massif has established itself as a mecca for French mountaineering, particularly around La Bérarde, La Grave, and Ailefroide. Today, faced with the dramatic retreat of its glaciers due to global warming, the massif remains a wild and fragile adventure territory, where nature and humans coexist with respect.
1. The Emparis Plateau
This is a true immersion in the heart of the Écrins, offering a breathtaking panorama with a reasonable elevation gain of about 700 meters. Accessible while remaining authentic, this walk seduces with its wild beauty and the diversity of its alpine landscapes, ideal for hikers who wish to combine moderate effort and natural wonder.
The departure is from the ski lift of the family resort of Le Chazelet, a convenient entry point that quickly contrasts with the tranquility found as soon as you venture onto the trail. Very quickly, you leave all traces of infrastructure to immerse yourself in an environment typical of the high alpine pastures. The gentle ringing of cowbells peacefully grazing punctuates your progress through verdant meadows that stretch as far as the eye can see.
An emblematic stage of the Tour de l'Oisans via the GR54, the Emparis plateau is a true natural balcony overlooking the Romanche valley. This vast area of alpine pastures invites contemplation, with the majestic barrier of La Meije dominating the landscape in the background. For lunch, Lac Noir is an ideal spot: its small, peaceful expanse of water offers an idyllic setting for a picnic break. Sitting by the lake, facing La Meije, the spectacle is striking. With a little luck and a good pair of binoculars, you might even spot mountaineers tackling the famous traverse of this rocky ridge, a moment of admiration and inspiration for all.
Across from you, the Girose glacier, connected to the famous Les Deux Alpes resort, also testifies to the geological and human history of these mountains. Unfortunately, like many other alpine glaciers, it has visibly retreated over the years, a poignant reminder of the effects of climate change. It should be noted that this hike, although without technical passages, requires good physical condition and some experience, especially due to its length. Hikers must get up early to fully enjoy this day of effort and beauty.
However, be aware that the Emparis plateau is a sensitive natural area that is heavily frequented, with over 400 daily visitors during peak season. Since 2023, new regulations aim to protect this fragile ecosystem. It is strictly forbidden to swim in lakes or streams, light fires, and dogs must be kept on a leash. It is also essential to leave no waste behind, even biodegradable, to preserve this exceptional nature.
Distance: 14 kilometers
Elevation gain: 700 meters positive elevation gain
Duration: 6 hours
Getting there by public transport: by train to Briançon, then by bus to La Grave
2. The Glacier Blanc Refuge
Glacier Blanc, visible from the refuge.
The Glacier Blanc refuge is an essential stop, a true haven of peace nestled at the edge of the eponymous glacier, at an altitude of 2550 meters. Accessible in just three hours of walking from Pré de Madame Carle, this refuge offers easy and spectacular access to everyone. From the first steps on the trail, you are plunged into a unique mineral world where ice, rock, and wild peaks create a magnificent and impressive landscape.
The trail starts at Pré de Madame Carle, a reception site and starting point for many adventures in Vallouise. The path is well marked and alternates between an ascent on the right bank, then a passage on the left bank of the glacier at a wide flat area. Progress is made amidst rocks and moraines, witnesses to the region's glacial history. You will pass near the old Tuckett refuge before reaching the current refuge, perched on a rocky promontory overlooking the glacier.
The Glacier Blanc, which stretches out before your eyes, is one of the most emblematic in the French Alps. It forms a fascinating world where ice tongues rub shoulders with dark moraines, sometimes covered with rocks, forming the neighboring black glacier. This proximity between white and black ice is a rare geological particularity, testifying to the constant evolution of the massif. This glacier, however grand, has lost more than two kilometers in length between the end of the 19th century and today, clear evidence of the climate changes that are permanently affecting the region.
Facing you stand the imposing north faces of Pelvoux, Pic Sans Nom, and Ailefroide. These wild and majestic peaks were long prestigious objectives for mountaineering pioneers at the end of the 19th century. The Glacier Blanc refuge is thus an ideal base camp for accessing famous climbs such as Les Agneaux, Pic du Glacier Blanc, or the Voie des Cinéastes. For enthusiasts, the refuge's terrace offers a privileged resting place to contemplate these giants, while enjoying the sunshine and tranquility of the surroundings.
Distance: 9 kilometers
Elevation gain: 700 meters positive elevation gain
Duration: 3 hours
Getting there by public transport: by train to L’Argentière-la-Bessée then by shuttle to Pré de Madame Carle
3. Bivouac at Lac Bleu
The Valgaudemar valley is not the most frequented in the Écrins massif. Yet it reveals a unique landscape, blending rocky peaks, imposing glaciers, and verdant valleys. The starting point for this hike is the car park of the Chalet-hôtel du Gioberney, an ideal starting point for exploring this spectacular valley. The road leading up to it already offers a glimpse of the park's beauties: dazzling waterfalls, majestic mountains, an alpine atmosphere. Two trails lead to the Pigeonnier refuge: one direct, the other longer, passing by Lac de Lauzon and Lac Bleu.
The trail gently ascends the western flank of the valley, offering splendid views of the surrounding peaks. A grassy plateau dotted with small waterfalls and ponds provides a first resting spot. Further on, Lac de Lauzon, though more frequented, remains a peaceful place by its greenish waters, framed by imposing mountains.
The ascent continues towards Lac Bleu, located at an altitude of 2200 meters. The landscape then becomes more alpine, with rocks, waterfalls, and glaciers in the background. The glacial lake is distinguished by its deep blue color, a sign of pure and fresh water. This place, often deserted by crowds, offers a perfect setting for a bivouac in the heart of nature.
The next morning, the sky is clear and the surface of Lac Bleu reflects the surrounding mountains in a brilliant light. The trail first descends through a carpet of rhododendrons to the powerful and refreshing Muante Belledone torrent. The ascent to the Pigeonnier refuge then begins, with a regular but sustained 400 meters of elevation gain. Waterfalls punctuate the path, offering welcome breaks to hydrate and enjoy the coolness.
Continuing the hike, the trail becomes wilder and less frequented, offering fun sections where hand-holds may be necessary, without causing any concern.
Distance: 13 kilometers
Elevation gain: 930 meters positive elevation gain
Duration: 2 days
Getting there by public transport: by train to Gap then by bus (Transisère 4100 to "Saint Firmin-Pont des Richards") and by shuttle to the start (Chalet hôtel du Gioberney)
4. The Tour du Combeynot
The Tour du Combeynot is a three-day trek, ideal for families and hiking enthusiasts looking to combine natural diversity and cultural richness in the heart of the Briançon region. This route allows you to observe in a short time a striking contrast between different landscapes, where water, omnipresent, plays a central role, oscillating between the eternal ice of glaciers and the fluidity of alpine rivers.
The starting point is the Col du Lautaret. From the first steps, the Sentier des Crevasses asserts its wild character. This path climbs gently, offering several spectacular viewpoints, notably at the Belvédère de l'Homme. This natural promontory offers an impressive panorama of the surrounding glaciers and peaks, a visual appetizer that prepares you for the rest of the route. The stage continues to the Alpe du Villar d'Arène, a place steeped in pastoral history where nature and traditional architecture intertwine harmoniously.
Day two starts at the Plan de l'Alpe refuges. The route ascends, crossing several streams, placing water at the heart of the natural spectacle. The ascent leads to the Col d'Arsine, a high-altitude pass that reveals a truly alpine landscape. Nearby, the glacial lakes of the Arsine glaciers are accessible. Their crystalline beauty reflects the surrounding peaks, offering a perfect stop for the eyes and mind. From this pass, the trail then descends into the Guisane valley. The long descent to the village of Le Casset marks the end of this stage, blending the gentleness of the valley with traces of the mountain's past.
The last day follows an ancient path along the Guisane river. Several typical hamlets punctuate this route, among which Lauzet, which is a crossing point before joining the GR50. This emblematic trail leads to the Col du Lautaret, thus completing the loop of the tour. Returning to the starting point offers deep satisfaction, mixed with the desire to extend the adventure in these mountains.
Distance: 29.5 kilometers
Elevation gain: 1080 meters positive elevation gain
Duration: 3 days
Getting there by public transport: by train to Briançon, then by bus to Col du Lautaret
5. The Tour des Écrins
The GR54, nicknamed the Tour des Écrins, is one of the most emblematic long-distance hiking trails in the French Alps and even in Europe. This nine-day route offers total immersion in a massif of raw and wild beauty, punctuated by magnificent panoramas that leave a lasting impression. Setting out on this trail guarantees an adventure that is both physical and sensory, amidst alpine landscapes, deep valleys, and mythical peaks.
The starting point is Bourg-d'Oisans, a small town in the heart of the Oisans. The path alternates between roads and trails, immediately revealing the striking contrast between nature and the Alpe d'Huez resort, with its modern infrastructure. The climb to the Col de Sarenne, perched at 2000 meters, offers a spectacular first glimpse of the Écrins. Le Râteau, La Meije, and their glaciers then appear in the background, announcing the grandeur to come.
The next day, the ascent to the Col Saint-Georges is made in the gentle light of the first rays of sun. Once at the pass, the Emparis plateau stretches as far as the eye can see, a surprisingly arid landscape reminiscent of the Mongolian steppes. La Meije, omnipresent, dominates the scenery, recalling the power and majesty of the place. Then, the hike descends towards Villar d'Arène, where you join the Romanche valley.
The Col de l'Aup Martin, the highest point of the GR54 at 2761 meters, marks a pivotal stage. The trail crosses wild landscapes, with few infrastructures, and offers a true immersion in the authentic mountain. Le Pelvoux, the Pic sans Nom, and L'Aile Froide dominate the scene, their imposing silhouettes fascinating the hiker. The descent to the Pré de la Chaumette refuge concludes an intense day.
As the stages progress, the physical difficulty increases, particularly during the ascent to the Col de la Vaurze or the passage to the Désert en Vajouffrey, where steep slopes and significant elevation gains seriously strain the legs. These efforts are compensated by breathtaking panoramas, moments of calm, and the wild beauty of nature.
The penultimate day leads to Lac de la Muzelle, via the pass of the same name, at an altitude of 2613 meters. This ascent is impressive for its number of switchbacks and rugged terrain. The lake, nestled below, takes on pinkish hues at sunset, while the Glacier de la Roche de la Muzelle glows with a golden light.
The last day features a long descent to Bourg-d'Oisans, passing through the Col du Vallon, which offers one of the most beautiful panoramas of the route, with La Meije opposite and Mont Blanc on the horizon. The trail then descends to Lac du Lauvitel, a very frequented but essential spot for its preserved natural setting. The cycling path leading to Bourg-d'Oisans concludes the journey. The arrival in town is tinged with satisfaction and emotion, after nine days of an intense and unforgettable adventure.
Distance: 180 kilometers
Elevation gain: 12,100 meters positive elevation gain
Duration: 9 days
Getting there by public transport: by train to Grenoble, then by bus to Bourg-d'Oisans
Disclaimer: preservation of natural spaces
To preserve the beauty and fragility of the alpine landscapes, it is essential to follow certain rules during your hikes in the Écrins massif. These particularly vulnerable areas are subject to increasing overuse, which can alter their ecosystem. We therefore encourage you to:
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Respect marked trails: do not venture off the trails to avoid damaging the local flora and ecosystem. Stay on designated paths and follow markings to preserve nature.
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Do not swim in lakes: mountain lakes, though tempting, are fragile environments. Swimming in these waters can disrupt the ecological balance and affect water quality. Please respect this rule, which is essential for the preservation of these exceptional natural sites.
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Limit your impact: adopt eco-responsible behavior by using public transport, taking your waste with you, and minimizing your footprint. Also remember to avoid excessive noise and respect the tranquility of local wildlife.
Prepare for adventure, but stay safe: safety rules in the Écrins (and elsewhere!)
The Écrins massif is a magnificent hiking area, but it presents challenges, particularly due to its many snowfields, especially at the beginning of the season. These conditions can make some trails more difficult, with a risk of falls, especially on icy areas. It is essential to be well prepared before setting off:
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Inform a loved one of your itinerary and approximate return time.
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Download an offline map of the itinerary to avoid disconnection in the mountains.
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Ensure you have the right equipment (snowshoes, crampons, etc.) depending on weather conditions.
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Prepare physically for significant elevation changes and frequent climatic variations at altitude.
Responsible Adventure Starter Pack in the Écrins
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Train travel: take advantage of the many train connections to limit your carbon footprint.
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Veggie option: remember to bring vegetarian snacks to fuel you during your hike (a dedicated article on mountain food is coming soon!).
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Pavenrod products: for a sustainable experience, opt for Pavenrod brand products, made in France and environmentally friendly.
For the brave ones who made it this far, the Pavencrew offers you a €10 discount code on the entire website for purchases of €50 or more with the code: ECRINS10.
These small actions are essential to preserve the natural environment of the Écrins and make your adventure even more enjoyable and respectful.